CALMAR
Brands
Blackmeans
Japanese

Blackmeans

Country
Japan
Price
Luxury
Founded
2008
Founder
Yujiro Komatsu
Blackmeans was founded in 2009 in Tokyo by Japanese designer Yujiro Komatsu as a contemporary luxury menswear brand specifically focused on what Komatsu described as 'a deliberately-Japanese-leather-craft anchored avant-garde menswear vocabulary anchored to traditional Japanese leather-tanning and hand-cut leather construction.' The brand has been one of the defining post-2009 Tokyo-anchored 'Japanese-leather-craft' avant-garde menswear brands. The Blackmeans vocabulary settled around several specific products: hand-cut Japanese-vegetable-tanned-leather jackets (the brand's defining product category since 2009 — the iconic Blackmeans Single-Rider and Double-Rider leather jackets have been the brand's anchoring products), deconstructed leather-and-denim hybrid construction garments, the iconic Blackmeans hand-stitched leather-accessories programme, deliberately-archival workwear-derived leather-construction tailored separates, and a colour palette anchored to natural-vegetable-tanned-leather, oxblood, washed-black leather, ecru, washed-charcoal, plus the brand's recurring use of natural-undyed and traditional-Japanese-leather-aesthetic colour combinations. Production is entirely Japanese at the Tokyo workshop. The brand is independent and held by Komatsu. Blackmeans operates flagship retail in Tokyo (Aoyama — the brand's home flagship) plus international wholesale through SSENSE, MR PORTER, MATCHES, Dover Street Market, GR8, Antonioli, LN-CC, the broader European avant-garde-luxury specialty retailers, and a curated set of avant-garde-leather specialty retailers globally. The brand has been one of the most rigorously committed post-2009 Tokyo-anchored 'Japanese-leather-craft' avant-garde menswear brands.

Timeline4

  1. 2008

    Blackmeans Founded in Tokyo

    Yujiro Komatsu and partners launch Blackmeans in Tokyo, focused on hand-crafted leather garments in the punk biker tradition.

  2. 2012

    Cult Punk Leather Following

    The brand develops a cult international following for its custom leather jackets and chain-mail constructions.

  3. 2016

    International Stockists

    Dover Street Market Tokyo and other niche retailers begin stocking Blackmeans pieces.

  4. 2020

    Continued Craft Focus

    The brand continues to handcraft each piece in Tokyo, maintaining its tight production model.

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